Guidebook for New Orleans
Food Scene
This killer breakfast spot is five blocks right down the street. Eggs Cochon are the way to go.
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The Ruby Slipper Café
2001 Burgundy StreetThis killer breakfast spot is five blocks right down the street. Eggs Cochon are the way to go.
This is where to get your poboys. It’s open 24 hours a day and is cash only. The All That Jazz is a must, and the Royal Feast is a close second.
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Verti Marte
1201 Royal StThis is where to get your poboys. It’s open 24 hours a day and is cash only. The All That Jazz is a must, and the Royal Feast is a close second.
Baldwin & Co.
1030 Elysian Fields AveFantastic coffee, Black-owned, large outdoor seating area
I eat here at least once a week. It’s very close to my house, has a fabulous bar program, and the Thai is fresh and absolutely delicious. Outdoor and indoor seating. In a beautiful old brick building (called brick-between-post, that style is from the 1700s). Drunken Noodles are my personal fave. Order spice regular—Budsi seasons things perfectly.
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Budsi’s Authentic Thai
1760 North Rampart StreetI eat here at least once a week. It’s very close to my house, has a fabulous bar program, and the Thai is fresh and absolutely delicious. Outdoor and indoor seating. In a beautiful old brick building (called brick-between-post, that style is from the 1700s). Drunken Noodles are my personal fave. Order spice regular—Budsi seasons things perfectly.
This is, hands down, my favorite breakfast in the city. The bread is homemade—try the toast with mushrooms and bacon and the aebelskivers!
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French Toast
1035 Decatur StThis is, hands down, my favorite breakfast in the city. The bread is homemade—try the toast with mushrooms and bacon and the aebelskivers!
This is a great one for your first evening in town. Fantastic Creole food in the French Quarter. They’re open Thursday - Sat, 5:30-10, and then for brunch on Sunday.
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Cafe Sbisa
1011 Decatur StThis is a great one for your first evening in town. Fantastic Creole food in the French Quarter. They’re open Thursday - Sat, 5:30-10, and then for brunch on Sunday.
This is my favorite place in the French Quarter to people watch, grab a coffee (ask for a Gutter Punk if you want the booze/coffee kick of a lifetime), and their breakfast sandwich with brie rocks my world.
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Envie Espresso Bar & Cafe
1241 Decatur StThis is my favorite place in the French Quarter to people watch, grab a coffee (ask for a Gutter Punk if you want the booze/coffee kick of a lifetime), and their breakfast sandwich with brie rocks my world.
Fabulous for all meals, especially brunch. Gorgeous old house covered in murals. You can also dine on the front Veranda. Famous for Drag Brunch a few times a month, but heads up, it’s loud.
There’s a pool and hot tub in back that you can enjoy for (I think) $25. It’s very opulent and relaxing. Bar and food in pool area, too.
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The Country Club
634 Louisa StreetFabulous for all meals, especially brunch. Gorgeous old house covered in murals. You can also dine on the front Veranda. Famous for Drag Brunch a few times a month, but heads up, it’s loud.
There’s a pool and hot tub in back that you can enjoy for (I think) $25. It’s very opulent and relaxing. Bar and food in pool area, too.
The Elysian Bar
2317 Burgundy StBeautiful bar and restaurant in an old church.
Just one block away, owned by a wonderful couple who lives upstairs. Sourdough wood-fired pizza and a fantastic bar program.
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Margot’s
1243 Frenchmen StreetJust one block away, owned by a wonderful couple who lives upstairs. Sourdough wood-fired pizza and a fantastic bar program.
Ayu Bakehouse
801 Frenchmen StreetFrench-style bakery, perfect for breakfast, coffee, and snacks
I often recommend my guests stop here for lunch on the way home from City Park. Get the BBQ shrimp
Poboy and a bowl of gumbo. Seriously, don’t miss this.
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Liuzza's by the Track
1518 N Lopez StI often recommend my guests stop here for lunch on the way home from City Park. Get the BBQ shrimp
Poboy and a bowl of gumbo. Seriously, don’t miss this.
Look up Chef Leah Chase and you’ll know why you need to go here. I recommend the lunch buffet—there will be a line, but it’s very, very worth it.
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Dooky Chase Restaurant
2301 Orleans AveLook up Chef Leah Chase and you’ll know why you need to go here. I recommend the lunch buffet—there will be a line, but it’s very, very worth it.
Just a few blocks into the French Quarter, this corner store is a staple for poboys and food to go. Cash only!!
Get the All That Jazz. Seriously, do this. Also the Royal Feast.
Open 24-hours.
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Verti Marte
1201 Royal StJust a few blocks into the French Quarter, this corner store is a staple for poboys and food to go. Cash only!!
Get the All That Jazz. Seriously, do this. Also the Royal Feast.
Open 24-hours.
Chef-owned, fabulous fancier restaurant in the French Quarter. One of my favorites for special occasions. Make a reservation. If you can get a spot at the chef’s bar, do so.
Saint John
1117 Decatur StreetChef-owned, fabulous fancier restaurant in the French Quarter. One of my favorites for special occasions. Make a reservation. If you can get a spot at the chef’s bar, do so.
Chef-owned on Magazine street. Fabulous for lunch or dinner. Nouveau Southern. Make a reservation.
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Gris-Gris
1800 Magazine StChef-owned on Magazine street. Fabulous for lunch or dinner. Nouveau Southern. Make a reservation.
In the Bywater on Piety and Burgundy. Great neighborhood to walk around, maybe combined with a sunset walk in Crescent Park.
Mostly vegan restaurant, and one of my favorites places to eat in the city. Great bar program. This place has really reasonably priced, locally-sourced, food with a focus on vegetables and vegan dishes, but with a few rotating meat dishes.
They become a fancier restaurant at night called Bar Brine. Just as wonderful and their daytime iteration.
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Sneaky Pickle
3200 Burgundy StIn the Bywater on Piety and Burgundy. Great neighborhood to walk around, maybe combined with a sunset walk in Crescent Park.
Mostly vegan restaurant, and one of my favorites places to eat in the city. Great bar program. This place has really reasonably priced, locally-sourced, food with a focus on vegetables and vegan dishes, but with a few rotating meat dishes.
They become a fancier restaurant at night called Bar Brine. Just as wonderful and their daytime iteration.
Much better than the Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. In the middle of City Park, eat beignets and drink cafe au lait sitting on an old stone bench that overlooks the water, with big Live Oaks draped with Spanish Moss
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Cafe Du Monde City Park
56 Dreyfous DrMuch better than the Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. In the middle of City Park, eat beignets and drink cafe au lait sitting on an old stone bench that overlooks the water, with big Live Oaks draped with Spanish Moss
Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro
626 Frenchmen StBurgers and jazz on Frenchmen St
One of my favorite places for comfort food, any night of the week. Homemade casual pasta.
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Arabella Casa Di Pasta
2258 St Claude AveOne of my favorite places for comfort food, any night of the week. Homemade casual pasta.
Old oyster restaurant Uptown. Very old-school, the inside is covered in tile, and everything is very fresh. Get the chargrilled oysters.
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Casamento's Restaurant
4330 Magazine StOld oyster restaurant Uptown. Very old-school, the inside is covered in tile, and everything is very fresh. Get the chargrilled oysters.
Fantastic tacos, so reasonably priced, and with a huge outdoor backyard dining area.
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Rosalita's Backyard Tacos 🌮
3304 St Claude AveFantastic tacos, so reasonably priced, and with a huge outdoor backyard dining area.
For old New Orleans/Creole Italian, come here. It's cash only, there is an ATM, they don't take reservations, and you have to wait in the Apple Barrel, which is the bar downstairs. Try the Ocean Sauce, or my personal favorite, the rack of lamb special. Oh, and the corn and crab cannoli are not to be missed!
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Adolfo's
611 Frenchmen StFor old New Orleans/Creole Italian, come here. It's cash only, there is an ATM, they don't take reservations, and you have to wait in the Apple Barrel, which is the bar downstairs. Try the Ocean Sauce, or my personal favorite, the rack of lamb special. Oh, and the corn and crab cannoli are not to be missed!
In the Marigny not far away, fantastic for morning needs. Coffee, homemade bagels. For lunch, fantastic Indian food. Their chai is my favorite I’ve ever had. Not too sweet, beautiful spiced, and a little salty
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Small Mart
2700 Chartres StIn the Marigny not far away, fantastic for morning needs. Coffee, homemade bagels. For lunch, fantastic Indian food. Their chai is my favorite I’ve ever had. Not too sweet, beautiful spiced, and a little salty
The Green Room Kukhnya
1300 Saint Bernard AvenueVery old corner store and deli in the Bywater. Their roast beef is particularly good, but everything Kirk makes (second generation owner!) is fabulous.
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Frady's One Stop Food Store
3231 Dauphine StVery old corner store and deli in the Bywater. Their roast beef is particularly good, but everything Kirk makes (second generation owner!) is fabulous.
I could eat here every day. Get the Sam. Get anything with their pastrami. You’ll thank me. I’m salivating just writing this.
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Stein's Market and Deli
2207 Magazine StI could eat here every day. Get the Sam. Get anything with their pastrami. You’ll thank me. I’m salivating just writing this.
Cypress Cakes
1919 Saint Claude AvenueFantastic bakery around the corner. So many wonderful things!
Brigtsen's Restaurant
723 Dante StreetEssentials
This is a wonderful, locally-owned grocery store! We love them so much. They have plenty of ready-to-eat food as well as everything else you could possible want. Also lots of beer, wine, and liquor.
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Robért Fresh Market
135 Robert E Lee BlvdThis is a wonderful, locally-owned grocery store! We love them so much. They have plenty of ready-to-eat food as well as everything else you could possible want. Also lots of beer, wine, and liquor.
It's a Walgreens. This one is particularly silly because of the enormous variety of people who go there. Be forewarned.
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Walgreens
1100 Elysian Fields AveIt's a Walgreens. This one is particularly silly because of the enormous variety of people who go there. Be forewarned.
Alex's Bikes
607 Marigny StRent bikes here and go riding around the Marigny and Bywater!
Drinks & Nightlife
Look this place up before you go. It’s a restaurant, wine garden, bar, and music venue. When you get there, I recommend you buy a bottle of wine and pick out some cheese to turn into a cheese plate, pay for that up front, grab a menu, and go out back. Once you’ve got a table, pick out some food and go order from the back window. There will be a band playing and it will be a magical night. There’s also an indoor bar upstairs. Often has a wait these days, so going here on “off” hours is best.
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Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits
600 Poland AveLook this place up before you go. It’s a restaurant, wine garden, bar, and music venue. When you get there, I recommend you buy a bottle of wine and pick out some cheese to turn into a cheese plate, pay for that up front, grab a menu, and go out back. Once you’ve got a table, pick out some food and go order from the back window. There will be a band playing and it will be a magical night. There’s also an indoor bar upstairs. Often has a wait these days, so going here on “off” hours is best.
Wonderful old bar in the Bywater. Beautiful building. Pool, lots of beer on tap.
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Bud Rips
900 Piety StWonderful old bar in the Bywater. Beautiful building. Pool, lots of beer on tap.
Golden Lantern
1239 Royal StStop here for a Bloody Mary to walk with. Best in the city.
This is a bar and venue, which usually has something cool going on.
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Allways Lounge and Theater
2240 St Claude AveThis is a bar and venue, which usually has something cool going on.
Great old bar that’s been there a long time. Stop here for an Irish Coffee (it’s a milkshake).
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Molly's at the Market
1107 Decatur StGreat old bar that’s been there a long time. Stop here for an Irish Coffee (it’s a milkshake).
Great bar and tapas in a gorgeous two-story brick building in the Marigny. Happy hour every day from 4-6.
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Anna's
2601 Royal StreetGreat bar and tapas in a gorgeous two-story brick building in the Marigny. Happy hour every day from 4-6.
Karaoke every night at 9, very local, go with a chill vibe and an open mind.
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Kajun's Pub
2256 St Claude AveKaraoke every night at 9, very local, go with a chill vibe and an open mind.
Great food pop ups at a nearby, local brewery with equally fantastic beer. No other local breweries are this close, so it’s a good opportunity to check one out.
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Brieux Carre
2115 Decatur StGreat food pop ups at a nearby, local brewery with equally fantastic beer. No other local breweries are this close, so it’s a good opportunity to check one out.
This is where you’ll find all the jazz. Just walk down Frenchmen towards the river, and after Washington Square Park, the jazz clubs will begin. There’s also a lovely night time art market here.
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Frenchmen Street
This is where you’ll find all the jazz. Just walk down Frenchmen towards the river, and after Washington Square Park, the jazz clubs will begin. There’s also a lovely night time art market here.
Shopping
Local artists' mall. This is a great place for unique souvenirs,
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Second Line Arts & Antiques Mall
1209 Decatur StLocal artists' mall. This is a great place for unique souvenirs,
Things to Do
A new, interactive exhibit about the culture of New Orleans using life-projections. On the roof of 1600 Canal St. in the Central Business District (where the tall buildings are).
Beautiful park with art museum, botanical garden, sculpture walk, water birds and wildlife, big oaks draped with Spanish Moss, a miniature train that rides through the park, and mini-golf. Also Cafe du Monde. Beautiful. Don’t miss it.
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City Park
1 Palm DrBeautiful park with art museum, botanical garden, sculpture walk, water birds and wildlife, big oaks draped with Spanish Moss, a miniature train that rides through the park, and mini-golf. Also Cafe du Monde. Beautiful. Don’t miss it.
There is an entrance at the bottom of Elysian Fields, and at the end of Piety in the Bywater. This park follows the Mississippi and has a beautiful view.
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Málmýri park
2300 N Peters StThere is an entrance at the bottom of Elysian Fields, and at the end of Piety in the Bywater. This park follows the Mississippi and has a beautiful view.
Right on Jackson Square, this is the seat of Spanish government while they owned New Orleans (far longer than the French did). It is now a New Orleans museum and very worth visiting.
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Cabildo
701 Chartres StRight on Jackson Square, this is the seat of Spanish government while they owned New Orleans (far longer than the French did). It is now a New Orleans museum and very worth visiting.
Vue Orleans
2 Canal StreetJAMNOLA
2832 Royal StIt’s like an interactive love letter to New Orleans.
Þurrkubátur Natchez
400 Toulouse StThe original La Nouvelle Orleans, built by the French, but mostly the Spanish. You’ll spend at least one day and one night walking around here. I have lots of pointers about how to most enjoy the FQ, so please feel free to ask.
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French Quarter
The original La Nouvelle Orleans, built by the French, but mostly the Spanish. You’ll spend at least one day and one night walking around here. I have lots of pointers about how to most enjoy the FQ, so please feel free to ask.