Guidebook for Pembrokeshire

Alexander
Guidebook for Pembrokeshire

Food Scene

Great pizzas, burgers, etc.
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The Canteen
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Great pizzas, burgers, etc.
Friendly bilingual staff, delicious and reasonably-priced breakfasts and snacks, coffee, cakes, etc.
Caffi'r Sgwar
Friendly bilingual staff, delicious and reasonably-priced breakfasts and snacks, coffee, cakes, etc.
Great fish and chips to eat in or take away. Goes really well with the Gwynt y Ddraig Welsh cider.
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Something's Cooking
3 Haverfordwest Rd
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Great fish and chips to eat in or take away. Goes really well with the Gwynt y Ddraig Welsh cider.
Great small brewery - one of many in the region but probably our favourite (the coffee milk stout is delicious). You can drop in to pick up a few bottles if you're exploring the Gwaun Valley or the Preseli Hills, or attend some of their excellent seasonal events - poetry, music, archaeology lectures; all sorts! Be sure to check their website first to see if they're open.
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Bluestone Brewing Company
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Great small brewery - one of many in the region but probably our favourite (the coffee milk stout is delicious). You can drop in to pick up a few bottles if you're exploring the Gwaun Valley or the Preseli Hills, or attend some of their excellent seasonal events - poetry, music, archaeology lectures; all sorts! Be sure to check their website first to see if they're open.
A good, family-friendly pub in the picturesque village of Spittal. Plenty of nice walks nearby, and they do a good Sunday lunch.
Pump On The Green
A good, family-friendly pub in the picturesque village of Spittal. Plenty of nice walks nearby, and they do a good Sunday lunch.
An incomparable destination, Tafarn Sinc is a community-owned traditional Welsh pub in a fantastic corrugated metal building packed full of curios from rural yesteryear. Rosebush is a former quarry village, and the disused railway used to stop directly outside the door of what was The Prescelly Hotel, now called Tafarn Sinc. Plenty of room inside, great food, drink, and atmosphere. There's sawdust on the floor, antique tools hanging from the ceiling, and events on all year round - a great spot to venture out for dog-walking, cycling, hill hiking, etc.
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Tafarn Sinc.
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An incomparable destination, Tafarn Sinc is a community-owned traditional Welsh pub in a fantastic corrugated metal building packed full of curios from rural yesteryear. Rosebush is a former quarry village, and the disused railway used to stop directly outside the door of what was The Prescelly Hotel, now called Tafarn Sinc. Plenty of room inside, great food, drink, and atmosphere. There's sawdust on the floor, antique tools hanging from the ceiling, and events on all year round - a great spot to venture out for dog-walking, cycling, hill hiking, etc.
A great choice for breakfast or dinner, located in a lovingly-restored old gymnasium/Sunday school building, Fffwrn is a coffee shop by morning/afternoon and a great spot for an evening meal or a celebration. Wonderful food - often French cuisine, a warm welcome, and a fantastic setting.
Ffwrn
8 Main St
A great choice for breakfast or dinner, located in a lovingly-restored old gymnasium/Sunday school building, Fffwrn is a coffee shop by morning/afternoon and a great spot for an evening meal or a celebration. Wonderful food - often French cuisine, a warm welcome, and a fantastic setting.
A luxurious cafe / deli, the Gourmet Pig is a great place to pick up special ingredients or just relax with a coffee and a snack in-between exploring the North Pembrokeshire coast path.
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The Gourmet Pig
32 West St
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A luxurious cafe / deli, the Gourmet Pig is a great place to pick up special ingredients or just relax with a coffee and a snack in-between exploring the North Pembrokeshire coast path.
Great cafe. Really big. Huge.
Marks and Spencer
Great cafe. Really big. Huge.
Hell on earth - unless you're under 8-ish, in which case, AMAZING.
Merlins Magic Children's Play Centre
Hell on earth - unless you're under 8-ish, in which case, AMAZING.
A great and characterful place overlooking St Bride's bay. Really good pub food and restaurant (best to book for the latter) also sometimes has events, music etc.
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The Druidstone Hotel
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A great and characterful place overlooking St Bride's bay. Really good pub food and restaurant (best to book for the latter) also sometimes has events, music etc.
Food highlights in Cardigan include two fantastic cafes, Crwst and Bara Menyn, mexican street food restaurant El Salsa and several great Indian restaurants/takeaways, of which Abdul's (down by the quay) is our favourite. Pizza Tipi is open from Easter to Autumn, serving fresh handmade stonebaked pizzas and drinks in a family-friendly setting with a stunning view over the Teifi river.
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Cardigan
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Food highlights in Cardigan include two fantastic cafes, Crwst and Bara Menyn, mexican street food restaurant El Salsa and several great Indian restaurants/takeaways, of which Abdul's (down by the quay) is our favourite. Pizza Tipi is open from Easter to Autumn, serving fresh handmade stonebaked pizzas and drinks in a family-friendly setting with a stunning view over the Teifi river.
Lovely woodland walks and estuary views, and a great restaurant serving food, drink, cream teas, etc. Ring ahead if visiting as it's sometimes booked out for private events (weddings etc.)
Slebech Park Estate
Lovely woodland walks and estuary views, and a great restaurant serving food, drink, cream teas, etc. Ring ahead if visiting as it's sometimes booked out for private events (weddings etc.)

Drinks & Nightlife

Good local pub with food (some nights), TV, pool table, occasional live music / events, etc.
The Cross Inn
Good local pub with food (some nights), TV, pool table, occasional live music / events, etc.
AKA "Bessie's" - a pub from another century. Has to be seen to be believed. Do not expect: fruit machines, live jazz, bowls of olives, craft beer, equity schemes, ice, lemons. Do expect: a pint of bass poured into a jug from a barrel, then poured into your glass, served through a hatch in the wall of a small square room with a fireplace and a picture of The Queen on the wall. Clientele variable but generally friendly.
Dyffryn Arms
AKA "Bessie's" - a pub from another century. Has to be seen to be believed. Do not expect: fruit machines, live jazz, bowls of olives, craft beer, equity schemes, ice, lemons. Do expect: a pint of bass poured into a jug from a barrel, then poured into your glass, served through a hatch in the wall of a small square room with a fireplace and a picture of The Queen on the wall. Clientele variable but generally friendly.
Good local pub with two small rooms, a jukebox and a pool table. Friendly staff and locals. Bring cash, because I don't think they take cards...
The Globe Inn
Good local pub with two small rooms, a jukebox and a pool table. Friendly staff and locals. Bring cash, because I don't think they take cards...

Arts & Culture

A medieval motte-and-bailey castle that once belonged to a Flemish baron called Wizo - it's a ruin, of course, but reasonably well preserved and with great views across the surrounding countryside. Free entry, always open (at least when we've been!) and a readily accessible slice of Pembrokeshire's Norman-era history - that's if you're able to tramp across a small cow field and climb a steep set of stairs with no hand rails. (Accessibility is relative where Pembrokeshire's historical monuments are concerned.) Fun fact: Wiston (Cas Wis in Welsh) is pronounced without the T.
Wiston Castle
3 Cawdor Terrace
A medieval motte-and-bailey castle that once belonged to a Flemish baron called Wizo - it's a ruin, of course, but reasonably well preserved and with great views across the surrounding countryside. Free entry, always open (at least when we've been!) and a readily accessible slice of Pembrokeshire's Norman-era history - that's if you're able to tramp across a small cow field and climb a steep set of stairs with no hand rails. (Accessibility is relative where Pembrokeshire's historical monuments are concerned.) Fun fact: Wiston (Cas Wis in Welsh) is pronounced without the T.

Everything Else

Technically a Bishop's Palace rather than a castle, this stunning ruin is situated on a steep hill overlooking the Cleddau Ddu (Eastern Cleddau). Some wonderful walks around here, but just parking in Llawhaden and walking a hundred metres or so down to the (usually open, free entry) castle is a trip well worth the making. There's a very high tower you can climb if you're brave but even the courtyard has stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
Llawhaden Castle
Technically a Bishop's Palace rather than a castle, this stunning ruin is situated on a steep hill overlooking the Cleddau Ddu (Eastern Cleddau). Some wonderful walks around here, but just parking in Llawhaden and walking a hundred metres or so down to the (usually open, free entry) castle is a trip well worth the making. There's a very high tower you can climb if you're brave but even the courtyard has stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
Pwllgwaelod beach near Dinas is a great spot for relaxing on a summer day or rowing out to explore the nearby coves, if you bring a kayak or canoe. Decent amount of parking, and rarely very busy Also, there's a pub right next to it (which serves food) and two great walks - one linear pram/wheelchair-friendly walk to Cwm yr Eglwys where you'll see the ruins of a church that fell into the sea (and another beach); and one circular walk via Dinas Island (Pen Dinas - returning via Cwm yr Eglwys) showcasing one of the more scenic stretches of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
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Pwllgwaelod Beach
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Pwllgwaelod beach near Dinas is a great spot for relaxing on a summer day or rowing out to explore the nearby coves, if you bring a kayak or canoe. Decent amount of parking, and rarely very busy Also, there's a pub right next to it (which serves food) and two great walks - one linear pram/wheelchair-friendly walk to Cwm yr Eglwys where you'll see the ruins of a church that fell into the sea (and another beach); and one circular walk via Dinas Island (Pen Dinas - returning via Cwm yr Eglwys) showcasing one of the more scenic stretches of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

Parks & Nature

Pembrokeshire's only fully intact stone circle (unless you count Bedd Arthur, which is ovular, or Garn Ochr/Dyffryn Syfynwy, which OS maps refer to, bizarrely, as a "cairn"); the circle itself (of some 16 stones) used to be called Trallwyn, after the local farms. But nowadays it is usually referred to by the name of the boggy common land in which it sits. The circle is small, and the stones barely waist-high, so it's arguably not in the same league as Stone Henge, etc.; but the beautifully bleak setting of the marshy southern slopes of the Preselis renders it a frankly far superior spectacle. There's free parking and it's easily accessible from the road, but be warned - it'll usually be wet.
Gors Fawr Stone Circle
Pembrokeshire's only fully intact stone circle (unless you count Bedd Arthur, which is ovular, or Garn Ochr/Dyffryn Syfynwy, which OS maps refer to, bizarrely, as a "cairn"); the circle itself (of some 16 stones) used to be called Trallwyn, after the local farms. But nowadays it is usually referred to by the name of the boggy common land in which it sits. The circle is small, and the stones barely waist-high, so it's arguably not in the same league as Stone Henge, etc.; but the beautifully bleak setting of the marshy southern slopes of the Preselis renders it a frankly far superior spectacle. There's free parking and it's easily accessible from the road, but be warned - it'll usually be wet.
The highest point in Pembrokeshire! It's not technically a mountain, but don't let the locals hear you say that. There's a good gradual ascent up the bridleway from the lay-by between Rosebush and Maenclochog. Maybe an hour up and an hour down at a steady pace. A bit much for small children but older ones (or portable ones) might manage it. Can get a big boggy near the top if it's been raining, but worth it for the awesome views as far as Wexford, Llyn, Brecon, etc. Foel Cwmcerwyn is (unusually) named after the valley that falls to its east: Foel = bald/hilltop/peak; cwm = valley/dip; cerwyn = mash tun/barrel.
Foel Cwmcerwyn
The highest point in Pembrokeshire! It's not technically a mountain, but don't let the locals hear you say that. There's a good gradual ascent up the bridleway from the lay-by between Rosebush and Maenclochog. Maybe an hour up and an hour down at a steady pace. A bit much for small children but older ones (or portable ones) might manage it. Can get a big boggy near the top if it's been raining, but worth it for the awesome views as far as Wexford, Llyn, Brecon, etc. Foel Cwmcerwyn is (unusually) named after the valley that falls to its east: Foel = bald/hilltop/peak; cwm = valley/dip; cerwyn = mash tun/barrel.
A great cycling/walking/dog-walking venue. Very manageable for the able-bodied (from older kids up) to make it all the way round at a steady pace on a day with fair weather. The visitor centre is set to close in 2018-19 for refurbishment, but bring your own supplies and the trails are set to remain open. There's usually a £2 charge for parking.
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Llys y Frân Country Park & Reservoir
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A great cycling/walking/dog-walking venue. Very manageable for the able-bodied (from older kids up) to make it all the way round at a steady pace on a day with fair weather. The visitor centre is set to close in 2018-19 for refurbishment, but bring your own supplies and the trails are set to remain open. There's usually a £2 charge for parking.
If you like burial chambers, you'll love Pentre Ifan. If you hate burial chambers, you might even be able to tolerate it. Free parking. Short walk. There are plenty of others around (and standing stones, passage tombs, etc.) but few are as iconic, photogenic, or easily accessible as Pentre Ifan. Also, there are BRILLIANT walks around the nearby Carnedd Meibion Owen rock piles and Ty Newydd ancient oak woodlands - both just round the corner (not necessarily the same corner...)
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Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber
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If you like burial chambers, you'll love Pentre Ifan. If you hate burial chambers, you might even be able to tolerate it. Free parking. Short walk. There are plenty of others around (and standing stones, passage tombs, etc.) but few are as iconic, photogenic, or easily accessible as Pentre Ifan. Also, there are BRILLIANT walks around the nearby Carnedd Meibion Owen rock piles and Ty Newydd ancient oak woodlands - both just round the corner (not necessarily the same corner...)
Bring a few quid for parking. Good walks round the lawns and woodland of this relatively small manor house. I mean, it's bigger than my house, but don't expect Mr Darcy to emerge dripping from a pond - put it that way. There's a great sculpture trail, a park, and a fun outdoor music-making area. Can get a big boggy in heavy rain, but generally good outdoor family fun, and dog-friendly too. There's an adequate cafe, and you can go inside the house itself to see the questionable taxidermy displays and period portraiture. If you really want to see how the other half lives, however, Picton Castle is a better bet.
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Scolton Manor
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Bring a few quid for parking. Good walks round the lawns and woodland of this relatively small manor house. I mean, it's bigger than my house, but don't expect Mr Darcy to emerge dripping from a pond - put it that way. There's a great sculpture trail, a park, and a fun outdoor music-making area. Can get a big boggy in heavy rain, but generally good outdoor family fun, and dog-friendly too. There's an adequate cafe, and you can go inside the house itself to see the questionable taxidermy displays and period portraiture. If you really want to see how the other half lives, however, Picton Castle is a better bet.
Picton castle does 3 things better than most if not all other places in Pembrokeshire. 1: The gardens are splendid. Some massive trees, fun incongruous Victorian era plants, and a truly exceptional walled garden full of herbs and, erm, poisonous plants. 2: The house itself, though no longer lived in, has some wonderfully and pointlessly expensive tables, rugs, paintings, curtains - that sort of thing. There is one relatively modern painting of a man with some really splendid trousers. 3: Owls. Just hundreds of owls. Mostly in the Owl Garden. Can be pricey if you do everything, but it would take ages, so maybe pick one thing and stick to it.
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Picton Castle & Gardens
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Picton castle does 3 things better than most if not all other places in Pembrokeshire. 1: The gardens are splendid. Some massive trees, fun incongruous Victorian era plants, and a truly exceptional walled garden full of herbs and, erm, poisonous plants. 2: The house itself, though no longer lived in, has some wonderfully and pointlessly expensive tables, rugs, paintings, curtains - that sort of thing. There is one relatively modern painting of a man with some really splendid trousers. 3: Owls. Just hundreds of owls. Mostly in the Owl Garden. Can be pricey if you do everything, but it would take ages, so maybe pick one thing and stick to it.
Good beach. Looks a bit like Iceland, what with the dark sand. There are some caves to explore, with seams of what looks like - and therefore almost definitely isn't - gold. Also some dunes. Dog-friendly, even car-friendly sometimes. Paid parking unless you're out of season.
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Newport Beach
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Good beach. Looks a bit like Iceland, what with the dark sand. There are some caves to explore, with seams of what looks like - and therefore almost definitely isn't - gold. Also some dunes. Dog-friendly, even car-friendly sometimes. Paid parking unless you're out of season.
The best beach in Pembrokeshire, and therefore THE WORLD. Paid national trust car park (when manned/personned) and you haf to walk about a mile to the beach, but even the most complainy small children will thank you when they get there. (Though you might have to carry them back). Pack for the trip. It's JUST about pram friendly if you carry for the last bit. Oh, and CHECK. TIDE. TIMES.
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Marloes Sands
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The best beach in Pembrokeshire, and therefore THE WORLD. Paid national trust car park (when manned/personned) and you haf to walk about a mile to the beach, but even the most complainy small children will thank you when they get there. (Though you might have to carry them back). Pack for the trip. It's JUST about pram friendly if you carry for the last bit. Oh, and CHECK. TIDE. TIMES.
The walks around the estuary in Landshipping are amazing. (Which is good, because there is nothing else to do here except walk, as far as I know.)
Landshipping
The walks around the estuary in Landshipping are amazing. (Which is good, because there is nothing else to do here except walk, as far as I know.)
If you like ruined Benedictine abbeys, then... TOUGH: this is a ruined *Tironensian* abbey. Go somewhere else.
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St Dogmaels Abbey
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If you like ruined Benedictine abbeys, then... TOUGH: this is a ruined *Tironensian* abbey. Go somewhere else.
Easily my 5th favourite burial chamber in Pembrokeshire.
Llech y Drybedd
Easily my 5th favourite burial chamber in Pembrokeshire.
There is a good children's play area in Crundale. So there.
Crundale
There is a good children's play area in Crundale. So there.
There's a lovely woodland walk from Gelli to Llawhaden, which you can make circular if you have a map. Mid-length, not for little-uns, and there are no shops/pubs so you'll have to come prepared in that respect, or drive to Clunderwen or preferably Narberth afterwards.
Gelli
There's a lovely woodland walk from Gelli to Llawhaden, which you can make circular if you have a map. Mid-length, not for little-uns, and there are no shops/pubs so you'll have to come prepared in that respect, or drive to Clunderwen or preferably Narberth afterwards.
The bluestones from Stone Henge came from here, and if you ask me it's about time we took them back.
Carn Menyn
The bluestones from Stone Henge came from here, and if you ask me it's about time we took them back.
A nice woodland accessible via public footpath if you park in a layby near Penty Parc.
Fairlawn Wood
A nice woodland accessible via public footpath if you park in a layby near Penty Parc.

Sightseeing

A small but steep hill with three huge cairns (the Welsh name refers to these) on its peak. The land slopes steeply to the north and east, and the views are perhaps the finest of all the peaks in the area. Certainly it's the most popular hill - maybe because of the banked and ditched iron age earthworks still visible around the north edge; maybe because of the ample parking space in the lay-by (simple pleasures...) but if you only climb one hill on your visit to the Preselis, this one offers the best results for the least effort.
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Foel Drygarn Hill Fort
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A small but steep hill with three huge cairns (the Welsh name refers to these) on its peak. The land slopes steeply to the north and east, and the views are perhaps the finest of all the peaks in the area. Certainly it's the most popular hill - maybe because of the banked and ditched iron age earthworks still visible around the north edge; maybe because of the ample parking space in the lay-by (simple pleasures...) but if you only climb one hill on your visit to the Preselis, this one offers the best results for the least effort.
Fantastic spot with views north over Strumble Head and West down the coast. There's a WW1 l lookout point at the top near the trig point, and various Iron Age remnants among the gorse and bracken. Modernist artist John Piper used to live in the cottage on the side, and you can see his frankly flummoxing impression of the hill if you know how to work Google.
Garn Fawr Iron Age Fort
Fantastic spot with views north over Strumble Head and West down the coast. There's a WW1 l lookout point at the top near the trig point, and various Iron Age remnants among the gorse and bracken. Modernist artist John Piper used to live in the cottage on the side, and you can see his frankly flummoxing impression of the hill if you know how to work Google.
If you love burial chambers with conglomerate textures and seams of quartz, Carreg Samson is the burial chamber for you. (NB: you can't actually be buried here, but you can visit if you park at Abercastle and walk up the coastal path to the west and follow the signs).
Carreg Samson
If you love burial chambers with conglomerate textures and seams of quartz, Carreg Samson is the burial chamber for you. (NB: you can't actually be buried here, but you can visit if you park at Abercastle and walk up the coastal path to the west and follow the signs).
Haverfordwest Lidl is easily my favourite Lidl in Haverfordwest. I was a doubter at first, I confess, but the commodious draggable baskets and ample, wide aisles make for a n affordable shopping experience like no other. (Sorry Aldi, I'm a convert.)
Lidl
Haverfordwest Lidl is easily my favourite Lidl in Haverfordwest. I was a doubter at first, I confess, but the commodious draggable baskets and ample, wide aisles make for a n affordable shopping experience like no other. (Sorry Aldi, I'm a convert.)
Absolutely riddled with puffins.
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Skomer Island
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Absolutely riddled with puffins.
Good beach. Narrow but plenty to see - including Thorn Island, which is often for sale if you have a spare few million and fit into that rare demographic that wants to own a derelict 19th century fort with close-up views of an oil refinery. (You can't see the refinery from the beach.)
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West Angle Beach
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Good beach. Narrow but plenty to see - including Thorn Island, which is often for sale if you have a spare few million and fit into that rare demographic that wants to own a derelict 19th century fort with close-up views of an oil refinery. (You can't see the refinery from the beach.)
More a set of earthworks than a castle really, but a good short walk around a fascinating and evocative early medieval landmark. Park by the beautiful church maybe (not sure you're allowed, but there is room) and take a look at the unique Celtic monoliths outside, before following the relatively recently instated footpaths (not on my OS map) up a steep wooded hill toward the castle. Alternatively you can drive up some very shonky hairpin bends and park at the West entrance. It's free, either way.
Nevern Castle
More a set of earthworks than a castle really, but a good short walk around a fascinating and evocative early medieval landmark. Park by the beautiful church maybe (not sure you're allowed, but there is room) and take a look at the unique Celtic monoliths outside, before following the relatively recently instated footpaths (not on my OS map) up a steep wooded hill toward the castle. Alternatively you can drive up some very shonky hairpin bends and park at the West entrance. It's free, either way.
On that tiny road between Castlebythe and Morvil there's a layby from which there are TWO fantastic walks. One linear, straight up the hill to the trig point from which, views. One circular, north, then west down through the common and the fields to Puncheston, via some iron age earthworks then back, partly via the relatively quiet road. There's a pub in Puncheston, and the remnants of a motte, devoured by japanese knotweed, near to the house of a kindly old man who will, given the opportunity, talk to you for a very, very long time. You will probably need a map for this walk.
Castlebythe
On that tiny road between Castlebythe and Morvil there's a layby from which there are TWO fantastic walks. One linear, straight up the hill to the trig point from which, views. One circular, north, then west down through the common and the fields to Puncheston, via some iron age earthworks then back, partly via the relatively quiet road. There's a pub in Puncheston, and the remnants of a motte, devoured by japanese knotweed, near to the house of a kindly old man who will, given the opportunity, talk to you for a very, very long time. You will probably need a map for this walk.
A very nice hill, popular with walkers, and - in the past at least - Celtic saints.
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Mynydd Carningli
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A very nice hill, popular with walkers, and - in the past at least - Celtic saints.

Essentials

Gwal y Filiast, AKA The Lair of the Greyhound Bitch, is a thick little cromlech/burial chamber in a steeply sloping bit of mystical woodland just over the river Taf. If there's a better located burial chamber in West Wales I haven't seen it. (And I've seen most of them.) If you close one eye, you might see a gnome/goblin lurking within.
Gwal y Filiast
Gwal y Filiast, AKA The Lair of the Greyhound Bitch, is a thick little cromlech/burial chamber in a steeply sloping bit of mystical woodland just over the river Taf. If there's a better located burial chamber in West Wales I haven't seen it. (And I've seen most of them.) If you close one eye, you might see a gnome/goblin lurking within.
Gerald of Wales used to live here. And he was a man with good taste.
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Manorbier Castle
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Gerald of Wales used to live here. And he was a man with good taste.